How to keep a donkey healthy

Donkeys and horses have several diseases in common, but symptoms and treatment differ,

Tetanus is caused by the Clostridium tetani bacterium,

and infection generally occurs through wound contamination.

A donkey with tetanus has severe spasms, which eventually

paralyse the respiratory system and cause death within days.

A foal can be vaccinated any time after weaning,

but the vaccination must be repeated after a month.

An unvaccinated donkey that suffers a deep wound or

has been castrated can be vaccinated, but antibiotics

will be necessary to help prevent tetanus.

Botulism, another clostridial disease, is caused by

eating old bones on phosphate-deficient grazing.

Donkeys can be vaccinated with the vaccine used

for cattle. Donkeys can be vaccinated during a rabies outbreak,

although current vaccines are not registered for use on them.

Occasionally, donkeys contract African horse sickness

(AHS), but are more resistant than horses and are

not generally vaccinated against it.

They are also susceptible to equine influenza and should be

vaccinated if there is an outbreak of the disease.

If run with horses, for example in a stud or at a riding school,

donkeys should be vaccinated annually. Another bacterial disease,

strangles, causes a ‘snotty nose’ and can result in pneumonia,

especially in foals. It can be treated with antibiotics similar to those used in horses.

Bridles, halters and bits should also be disinfected,

as strangles is easily transmitted between animals.

Dourine, a notifiable disease

Donkeys are susceptible to dourine,

a protozoal disease transmitted during

mating. It causes a gradual loss of condition,

resulting in paralysis. The genitalia become swollen,

and 2cm to 4cm diameter circular swellings or ulcers appear

on the body. This notifiable disease must be reported to

the state veterinarian. Donkeys can also die of biliary caused by either Babesia

or Theileria equi. Symptoms include anaemia and loss of appetite,

and treatment is similar to that used for horses.

Sometimes, donkeys suffer from colic,

commonly caused by ingesting plastic bags

on overgrazed pasture. Adequate feeding with

sufficient hay will prevent this. Treatment is similar to that for horses,

but vets should familiarise themselves with effective medication and dosages.

Intestinal parasites are the main cause of thinness or weakness in donkeys.

Skin diseases are usually caused by ticks, mange or ringworm,

while foot diseases result from foot rot, laminitis,

or hooves wearing down on tar roads.

Mineral deficiencies can cause overgrown hooves.

Wounds, including harness sores, occur frequently,

but respond well to daily cleaning with salt water.

Use antibiotics in case of infection.

We have been working to improve the recognition of donkeys
in wider society as they are considered of less worth than other livestock.

Donkeys are susceptible to the
same respiratory diseases as horses
. Find out what signs to look out for
and ways to reduce the risks.

The respiratory system starts at the nose which leads to the windpipe (trachea), which branches into bronchi leading to each lung. Tiny hairs in the nasal passages trap dust and other particles that would otherwise irritate the sensitive lining of the lungs. Mucous production throughout the system also serves to trap foreign particles. Coughing is a reflex designed to ‘cough up’ mucous-covered foreign particles.

Causes of disease

Infections

Several viruses may affect the donkey such as Equine Influenza, Equine Herpes Virus (and a donkey-specific Herpes virus called Asinine Herpes Virus). Bacterial infections include Strangles (Streptococcus equi). Parasites include an equine specific lungworm.

Allergies

This is the equivalent of asthma and could be caused through dust, pollen or fungal spores. A notable condition in the donkey is Recurrent Airway Obstruction - in some cases pasture associated. RAO used to be called chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) and has also been known as ‘heaves’ in the past.

Fibrosis

This is a reduction in the elasticity of the lungs so essential for effective inspiration and expiration. This may occur with age or as a sequel to another pathological insult such as viral diseases.

Tumours

Not very common but they do occur.

Tracheal narrowing or collapse

The windpipe cannot function effectively if it loses its shape.

Signs of respiratory disease in the donkey

It is essential that you know what is the normal respiratory rate for your donkey. Get used to checking the rate of respiration (how often your donkey breathes in and out). This is variable but on average a donkey breathes in and out between 13 and 31 times per minute, with an average of 20 times a minute. More details can be found in the Donkey Care Handbook in the section on Donkey Health.

If nostrils flare excessively with each inspiration there may be a problem.

Breathing should be as easy for a donkey as it is for us. Excessive abdominal movements are abnormal.

An outstretched neck or very noisy respiration is abnormal.

Persistent coughing is abnormal.

Any nasal discharge, whether thick or thin, is abnormal. Check if it is from one side or coming from both nostrils

Feel around your donkey’s head, especially between the bones of the lower jaw and throat area. There should be no abnormal swellings which could indicate swollen lymph glands as a result of infection

If your donkey is off his/her feed and/or has a high temperature this could indicate respiration infection.

What to do

Call your vet without delay

Any information regarding breathing characteristics, body temperature and discharges will be very useful to let your vet know about. Your vet will certainly want to confirm that vaccination against Equine Influenza is up to date. De-worming information will also be vital. Information regarding any change of bedding material may be relevant. It is essential that you let your vet know if your donkey has travelled recently and whether there has been contact with other equines.

Your vet will carry out an examination, which may include checking the body temperature, pulse rate and respiration rate. A sample of nasal discharge may be taken away for analysis, this is usually taken using a long swab inserted briefly up one nostril.

A stethoscope will be used to listen to the breathing sounds in the lungs. Blood and dung samples may well be taken. X-rays are not very useful for examining the chest of a donkey, and an ultrasound scan can help detect damage. An endoscope (a tube containing a light source which can be inserted into the windpipe via a nostril) can be used to look for signs of disease in the windpipe.

Treatment

This will depend upon the vet’s findings but could include anti-inflammatory medication, antibiotics and drugs to expand the airways and reduce excessive mucous production. More complex procedures such as X-rays, ultrasound and endoscopy may be recommended (does your insurance cover vets fees?)

In some cases changes in management are essential; for example, if a dust allergy is suspected then dust-free management must be put in place. This will involve a change to dust-free bedding, soaking of feeding straw/hay and turn out as much as possible.

Many respiratory diseases are highly infectious and you will need to prevent transmission of the infection by careful hygiene and isolation precautions. Seek your vet’s advice about what to do if an infectious cause is diagnosed, but always remember never to separate your donkey from his/her companion.

A donkey that has a fever and respiratory disease, may go off their food and develop hyperlipaemia. Sick donkeys will need good nursing care and tempting feed (see fact sheet for Hyperlipaemia).

Reducing the risk

Ensure your donkey is vaccinated against Equine Influenza - this requires an annual booster. Even if your donkey never leaves the paddock it is still at risk. Other equines may be in the vicinity and could spread infection. You could even bring infection in yourself.

Ask your vet about testing for worms by carrying out a faecal worm egg count (FWEC). Ask your vet to check for lungworm in the faeces using a specific test as a FWEC will not detect these parasites.

Make sure your bedding and feeding straw/hay is good quality and as dust free as possible. If you see mould on the hay or straw discard it. Clean and disinfect your donkeys' stable on a regular basis, removing mouldy, dirty damp bedding, dust and any cobwebs. Ensure stables are well ventilated but not drafty.

Your donkeys will thrive on an environment enrichment programme. Highly intelligent and inquisitive, donkeys greatly enjoy being taken out for walks and the exercise provides real health benefits. It will also be much easier for you to spot abnormalities if you are walking your donkey out as their respiratory apparatus is put to the test!

Donkeys diseases and care

Modern donkeys are descended from wild asses in Northeast Africa. DNA studies of African and Asian wild asses have led to scientists drawing this conclusion; the history of donkeys is tied to human history. The early use of donkeys corresponded to people shifting from an agrarian to a more mobile, trade-oriented society.

Although the donkey played a major role in travel and transport throughout history, it has been little studied and not celebrated in art or history. In many rural, developing parts of the world it still plays a major role in transport.
Donkeys seem to be very tough and resilient and able to survive where horses cannot. They are resistant to many diseases which may prove fatal to horses. However, they also require good care for optimal

“They are resistant to many diseases which may prove fatal to horses.”

health and productivity. They need companionship, so should never be kept alone. They need a high fibre diet and should be able to graze. They require access to shelter. Training and handling should take place daily.
Mental stimulation and environmental enrichment should take place. Daily grooming is necessary, as well as regular health checks. They require veterinary care when necessary. Their feet and teeth should be taken care of regularly. Measures should be taken to prevent illness, through vaccination, individual care, and stable and pasture management.
Common diseases affecting donkeys include Rabies, African Horse Sickness, colic, laminitis, ectoparasites, sarcoids, and wounds and injuries.
RABIES
Rabies is always fatal. It is caused by a neurotropic virus which is transmitted by a bite from another rabid animal. Its presentation can be variable, but any rapidly progressing neurological condition should raise suspicion. The incubation period is usually from two weeks to two months with death in three to seven days after the appearance of symptoms.
AFRICAN HORSE SICKNESS
African horse sickness is an infectious viral disease spread by midges. It is seasonal and different forms of the disease occurs with different outcomes. Donkeys should be vaccinated against AHS early in summer. During an outbreak, or when Culicoides midges are very active, wash donkeys down with an insect repellent. If possible, stable them from before dusk to after dawn. The Kenyan Veterinary Association recommends washing them with 5ml kerosene in 1 litre water to repel insects. The incubation of AHS is four to eight days. Donkeys are generally more resistant to AHS than horses.
There is no specific treatment against the AHS virus, but good nursing may be of value. Rest, shade, fluids, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics and eye ointments may be of value. Palatable food is important. Isolate sick animals and use a spray to deter insects. Practice good hygiene. Use gloves, clean equipment, new sterile needles and syringes.
BABESIOSIS
Babesia equi and B caballi are protozoal blood parasites spread by ticks. Acute or chronic syndromes may be seen. Acute cases show intermittent fever with sweating as well as anaemia, pallor and jaundice. There are petechial or echymotic haemorrhage on conjunctiva . The heart rate is elevated and there may be haemoglobinuria, colic, and reluctance to move.
Chronic cases show chronic debility, weight loss, anaemia, emaciation, and haemic murmur. It may be difficult to detect parasites in blood.
Treatment: Imidocarb 1-4 mg/kg im, repeat after one or two days if signs persist. Use lower dose in donkeys. Berenil can be used, but is more toxic in the equine. Supportive therapy is valuable.
DOURINE
Dourine is a venereal disease caused by trypanosomes. Symptoms include swollen penis or vulva and discharge, oedema at the sides of the body with hind leg weakness in advanced stages . Half of affected animals die. Dourine is a controlled disease and affected animals are euthanized. Berenil can be used for prevention at time of mating.
STRANGLES
Strangles is a highly contagious bacterial disease. It can occur in epidemics, with young animals at most risk. The bacteria can persist in the environment for months. Isolation of affected animals and disinfection of all food and water troughs, harnesses, buckets etc. is very important.
Affected animals have a high temperature, look sick, often cough, initially have a watery nasal discharge, which becomes purulent after a few days. Lymph nodes will be enlarged and painful and swallowing will be difficult. Abscesses rupture after about one to two weeks, bringing immediate relief. Occasionally animals will have auto-immune complications. Antibiotics should
NOT be used early in the course of the disease unless there are complications.
ANTHRAX
Caused by Bacillus anthracis, anthrax is a very important zoonotic disease and must be reported to the nearest state vet. Symptoms include fever and depression, oedema under jaw, on neck and ventral abdomen, bleeding under mucous membranes and possibly bleeding from orifices. Death occurs one to three days later. There is no rigor mortis and blood may not clot. Carcasses should be buried deep in lime or burnt, or left closed for 48 hours and then buried. Exposed people must seek medical advice. Monitor exposed animals closely. If temperature increases by one degree, treat with penicillin. An effective vaccine is available to prevent this fatal disease.
TETANUS
Tetanus is caused by Clostridium tetani which grows in deep anaerobic wounds and produces a toxin. Clinical signs are caused by the toxin and not by the bacteria. In early stages, the animal appears stiff and anxious and shows an excessive response to sudden noise and movement. Turning its head is difficult. Later the third eyelid protrudes, ears are erect, swallowing is difficult and the animal salivates. Rigidity and spasms increase. Eventually the animal becomes recumbent, convulses and dies. Treatment may be attempted if the animal is still standing. Tetanus toxoid can be administered by a vet. High doses of penicillin kill the bacteria, but do not counteract the toxin. Deep wounds should be explored and repeatedly flushed with saline, diluted iodine or peroxide. House in a quiet dark place. The prognosis is not good. Once recumbent, the animal should be euthanized.
COLIC
Because equines are hindgut fermenters, they are more prone to intestinal problems than bovines. Colic has many causes, all of which cause pain. Death is due to circulatory collapse secondary to collection of fluid in the malfunctioning gut, as well as endotoxic shock secondary to movement of endotoxin across the malfunctioning gut wall.
Colic may be caused by sudden changes in diet, too much grain, highly fermentable green fodder, poor quality or mouldy hay, long gaps between large meals, insufficient water, rapid drinking of too much water, or poor teeth. It can also be caused by endoparasites, eating sand, or eating rubbish such as plastic bags.
CLINICAL SIGNS
Donkeys show fewer behavioural signs than horses, but the colic is just as serious. Vets should ideally examine animals before giving pain relief, as this will hide clinical signs. The donkey’s pulse rate can give an indication of severity. If it is between 60 and 80, it is of concern. A pulse rate over 80 is very concerning. Mucous membrane colour also indicates severity. Pale mucous membranes indicate dehydration and shock. Dark red or purple mucous membranes indicate peripheral circulatory failure and endotoxic shock. A vet should be consulted early in the course of colic.
ENDOPARASITES
The distribution of equine endoparasites is remarkably constant throughout the world. There are four main families: nematodes, trematodes, cestodes and arthropods. They can be controlled by regular removal of faeces where animals gather, not feeding from the ground, adequate nutrition and regular deworming.
ECTOPARASITES
Ectoparasites and skin conditions should be treated. Conditions include mange, lice, bacteria, fungi, flies and injuries.
Donkeys are susceptible to the same conditions as horses, and although they are quite tough and stoic, deserve the same attention to their health and management as horses.

How to Care for a Pet Rabbit

Rabbits are unique pets. They have specific needs in order to live a long, happy and healthy life. Here is a basic overview on how to care for a pet rabbit:

Step 1: Set Up Safe Indoor Housing

There are several options to house rabbits inside. They can live free-reign in a bunny proofed room/rooms, or they can be contained within a puppy pen, bunny condo, or large rabbit cage. If contained, their space should always be large enough so they can hop around, and they should be let out of their pen for at least a few hours everyday for exercise.

Make sure the primary location of your rabbit is not isolated from you and your family. A family room or living room is a good place. Learn more about indoor rabbit housing at Housing Your Pet Rabbit Indoors.

Step 2: Bunny Proof Your House

Rabbits need space to run around and explore. In order to create a safe space for your bunny and to protect your belongings, you will need to thoroughly bunny proof the area. This includes covering all wires with plastic sleeves or flex tubing, or lifting them 3-4 feet out of reach of your rabbit.

If you don’t want your baseboards gnawed, you can cover them with plastic guards, 2x4s or furring strips. You’ll also have to block off certain areas since rabbits like to chew the undersides of beds, items on bookshelves, house plants, and more. Basically, your rabbit will try to chew everything in reach. Learn more at Bunny Proofing Your House.

Step 3: Provide Fresh Hay

A rabbit’s diet should mainly consist of hay. Fresh hay should be provided to rabbits at all times. Baby rabbits should be given alfalfa, and adult rabbits should be fed timothy hay, grass hay, or oat hay.

Using a large hay feeder is helpful because it keeps large amounts of hay dry, clean, and accessible. Learn more about the importance of hay and where to buy it at Hay for Rabbits: The Basis for a Healthy Diet.

Step 4: Provide Fresh Greens, Fiber-rich Pellets, and Fresh Water

Supplement your rabbit’s hay with fresh vegetables, fiber-rich pellets (in limited quantities for adult rabbits), and fresh water daily. You can learn more about what kinds of food to feed your bunny at What to Feed Your Pet Rabbit.

You can also learn about growing many of your rabbit’s favorite vegetables at Bunny Gardening for Beginners.

Step 5: Set Up a Litter Box

Rabbits have a natural inclination to poop and pee in one area. Take advantage of this by setting up a medium-sized cat litter box or shallow storage bin near their food/water bowls and hay feeder.

Put a thin layer of rabbit-safe, recycled newspaper pellet litter at the bottom of the litter box. Do not use clay/clumping cat litter or wood shavings, as they are not safe for rabbits. Then put hay on top of the litter. Rabbits like to eat hay and poop at the same time, so this will encourage good litter box habits. Learn more at Litter Training Your Pet Rabbit.

Step 6: Provide Enrichment

Rabbits can get bored easily. Not only do they need space to exercise, they also need mental stimulation. Cardboard castles are great because rabbits spend hours chewing new windows and doorways. Cardboard castles also provide a quiet refuge for the rabbit when necessary. Learn more at Building a Cardboard Castle for Your Bunny.

You can also provide a variety of toys for your rabbit to pique his or her interest. Learn more at Enrichment for Your Pet Bunny, Logic Toys for Rabbits, and Playing with Your Pet Bunny.

Step 7: Groom Your Rabbit

Rabbits are naturally clean animals and wash themselves frequently. But you still need to groom your rabbit on a regular basis. Rabbits go through shedding cycles a couple times a year. It’s important to brush your rabbit to remove all the excess fur. Otherwise, your rabbit could ingest it and have serious digestive issues. Learn more about keeping your rabbit looking and feeling sharp in our article, Grooming Your House Rabbit.

Regular nail clipping is also important because long nails can get snagged on things or they can curl into your rabbit’s paw. Learn how to clip your rabbit’s nails yourself at Clipping Your Rabbit’s Nails.

Step 8: Bring Your Rabbit to a Rabbit-Savvy Vet

Rabbits are prey animals, and so their natural instinct is to hide any symptoms of illness. You must keep a watchful eye to ensure your rabbit is eating, drinking, pooping, and peeing regularly. If you notice any change in behavior, it is important to call a rabbit-savvy vet immediately. Learn about common rabbit diseases to look out for at our Rabbit Health section.

In addition to responding to illness, it is also essential to bring your rabbit in for regular veterinary checkups. The vet can check the ears, eyes, teeth, and gut to make sure the rabbit is in good health. Finally, consider spaying or neutering your rabbit. Spaying/neutering can reduce aggressive behavior, improve litter box habits, and improve a rabbit’s overall health. Learn more at Spaying or Neutering Your Pet Bunny.

Find a rabbit-savvy vet in your area at the House Rabbit Society Veterinarian Index.

Step 9: Understand Rabbits’ Unique Language and Behavior

Pet rabbits are different from cats and dogs. It’s essential to understand how rabbits think so you and your rabbit can live a happy life together. Learn about their unique language at Binkies, Nose Bonks and Flops: Rabbit Behavior Explained and demystify unfavorable rabbit behavior by reading Help! My Rabbit Hates Me!. By catering to your rabbit’s natural inclinations, you can build a trusting, loving relationship with your bunny. See Building a Relationship with Your Rabbit for more information.

You May Think You’re an Animal Rights Activist. But You’re Not

Most everyone in the Animal Rights movement would like to see an end to the suffering of animals trapped in the food system. But some actually believe that embracing efforts to alleviate some of the pain, suffering, and horrible treatment of those poor creatures is tantamount to supporting the Animal Holocaust.

They even suggest that “animal welfare” is at odds with Animal Rights.

Before we can intelligently discuss the issues it is important that we are all conversant with the terms we are using.

We call ourselves the Animal Rights movement, but we are actually the Animal Protection movement.

Of the tens of thousands of animal activists, barely a handful are working on Animal Rights. All the rest of us are engaged in animal welfare, or, if you prefer, animal protection.

Those working on Animal Rights are doing one of two things: Either working to change the laws to grant personhood status to animals (which is being pursued in the courts in New York by a few Animal Rights lawyers trying to have personhood declared for a chimpanzee) or educating potential revolutionaries for a future overthrow of the system that denies rights to animals.

Those doing EVERYTHING else are working on animal welfare. And yes, that includes being vegan, recruiting vegans, hunt sabbing, liberating mink, rescuing dogs, opposing sealing, whaling, rodeos, etc.

All of it is animal welfare. It is what I do every day of my life. In all likelihood, it is what you do as well.

Animal Rights is a legal concept. It is government recognizing that animals have the rights not to be owned, exploited, or murdered. Only governments or society can recognize Animal Rights. And no government on Earth is close to doing so. Animal Rights is a distant dream, and one that you are likely NOT working on.

Some of our activist friends are unclear on the concept. They think recruiting vegans is working for Animal Rights, and to do anything short of that is to be a welfarist, which they deride as evil.

The fact is that there will be hundreds of generations of animals in the food system before we can end the Animal Holocaust. We owe it to them to alleviate their suffering. To self righteously refuse to try to help is to condemn them to more misery than they must endure. It is flawed reasoning and premeditated cruelty.

The Animal Rights movement has two goals; one is short term, the other is long term.

Our short term goal is the alleviation and prevention of suffering of animals in the here and now. These are the aims of animal welfare.

Our long term goal is to secure for animals the rights not to be enslaved, exploited, or murdered. These are the aims of Animal Rights.

Most everything we do on a day to day basis is in service of our short term goal. We rescue, we work to pass legislation which will eliminate cruelty, we engage in demos and direct acion, we impact corporate and public policies, we educate, proselytize, and organize.

Working toward our long term goal is almost exclusively a function of education. Animal Rights will only be secured when we have a political climate receptive to the concept and our numbers have reached a critical mass sufficient to ignite and sustain a political drive powerful enough to ensure the adoption of Animal Rights by whatever government is then extant.

It is possible we can achieve Animal Rights politically, but I seriously doubt it. To succeed politically means we must overcome human greed and self interest. It means people voluntarily giving up profits, pleasures, and comforts in favor of ethics and compassion.

I don’t see it happening. I believe the only solution is revolution. But revolution fomented exclusively by Animal Rights advocates is not a likely scenario. To sustain the widespread moral imperative necessary to topple governments will require broad popular support addressing a host of grievences and inequities.

To achieve our long term goal I believe we need a socialist government in place. A capitalist one will not allow animals more deference than profits, and capitalist governments have proven their hostility to both animal rights and animal welfare.

Our long term goal is truly long term. It won’t be realized in our lifetimes, perhaps not for centuries.

Our short term goal similarly requires a receptive political atmosphere. In the US the political choice is between conservative Republicans and Democrats. The Democrats, unfortunately, are not all liberals, but the Republicans are exclusively conservatives. And conservatives are the enemies of all we do in the Animal Rights movement. Local city and county conservatives oppose no-kill shelters, bans on pet shop animal sales, mandatory free spaying and neutering, neutering and release; at the state levels they are advocating new horse slaughterhouses, wolf and bear hunts, opposition to bans on puppy mills, etc.

At the national level, conservatives carry water for the slaughter industries, environmental polluters, loggers, coal and oil companies. They oppose the Environmental Protection Agency and the listing of endangered species. The favor wolf kills, Mustang roundups, the killing agenda of the infamous Wildlife Services, a wholly owned government subsidiary of the cattle industry.

Conservative politicians are the enemies of animals, even if our conservative friends don’t know it!

Like every social movement in history, ours is a political one. And we cannot win protection for animals, or ever achieve rights for animals, without winning their political struggles.

facility takes care of animals until their rightful owners can be found or until they are transferred to an adoption agency.

The first activity, entitled 'Does farmers managed natural regeneration lead to increases in soil carbon and fertility status in arid agricultural landscapes?,' attempts to quantify the effects of FMNR on soil carbon, nitrogen and fertility status through investigation on changes that might be observed between farms under FMNR with various age category and conventional farm (regularly coppiced) stands. This will involve the study of the variation in fine root biomass and their C/N abundance and stable isotopic signatures. The study will contribute to a rigorous evaluation of the sequestration potential and of the climate smartness of FMNR.

TUMAINI JIPYA FOUNDATION.

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